I still have the swordbrush I bought around 45 years ago and it still works great. So, if you accidently put too much paint in there you can quickly blot it out and start over. Colorchip is that it is a lacquer based touch up, so it won`t have an issue with today`s paint which is probably all water-based.
#Edge blending sai painting how to
With this brush, once you learn how to use it correctly, you can put a little paint into the chip very precisely. What I like about this brush is that once you get it wet with lacquer thinner, it really gets even sharper, all the way down to the tip where you want it that way. You have to - learn - how to use it, so practice first. The only brush used back then was made by Mack and looks very close to this one. I did hundreds of touch ups to automotive paint way back when I was an Apprentice Painter, and then a Journeyman Painter. Maybe a body shop would but they probably don`t want to do such a small job and just want to quote a repaint paid for by your Insurance. I haven`t found a detail shop yet nearby that would do that, suprisingly. (Get more opinions.) People are very wary of wet sanding, as it`s easy to do damage if you don`t know the basic technique. You`ll need to polish the slight haze in the clear created by the wet sanding with probably a medium cut polish, like a Meguiars 105 and then something finer like 205. Maybe the admin can combine our threads since we are talking about the exact same thing. I just saw you didn`t get very many replies. If someone else wants to chime in, there has to be some "experts" here. I think the trick is to apply the paint (assuming the scratch went through the clear coat) in the thinnest layer possible then use one or more layers of clear so that you are leveling the clear, not the touch up paint. I`m no expert but I *think* this is what I did. With it taped off you really don`t risk causing any major damage to the surrounding clear coat except right at the edge of the scratch which is what you are blending anyway. You can wipe it dry repeatedly to keep checking how you`re doing. Basically use the finest grit that will level it. You may want to start at 2,000 instead of 1,500 grit. Then use some water with dawn liquid like a 1 dawn to 5 water ratio (the soap acts as a lubricant to make the sanding a little "safer") and then carefully sand with the pencil eraser. Basically if I recall when I did this many years ago, I taped off the scratch as close to the edges as possible and then used a hole punch to punch out a circle of sandpaper in various grits 1,500, 2,000, and 2,500 and glued them to the end of a pencil erasure. I started a similar thread not seeing this one trying to confirm if my memory was correct on the best process. I think the key is really just patience and trying not to do too much at a time and maybe even just expectations lol I recently used this method on a clients car and he was very happy with the outcome. Probably far from it but its better than when I see blobs of touch up paint on some cars where you can distinctly tell it is there. I don`t know if I would say my touch up skills are perfect. Ill usually apply it in lighter layers by dabbing a small amount of paint in the chip and slowly build up the layer and try to get it as level with the surrounding paint as possible and then will do some light feather sanding on the area to blend it all together. They make applying the touch up paint much easier and more precise than using the applicator that they come with (usually the nail polish brush like thing). I recently picked up one of those fine line drawing pens (The one which Larry from AMMO NYC used in one of his paint touch up how to videos) and some of those touch up sticks from Amazon with the fine tips (look like a long stick with a small felt tip and they come in a pack of 25).